Cosy in the Cotswolds

The snow lay thick everywhere I looked and I shall admit, I was somewhat concerned about driving into the Cotswold market town of Burford given these conditions. The SatNav of course, in calculating the fastest route, wanted to send me down a narrow, oneway track thick with slushy snow and ice. I considered this for a nano-second as I had the Hyundai rental car blinker on ready to turn. No doubt on a good day this route would save a minute or two. But nope, I flicked it off and headed back along the road I had been travelling. It was of course the main road into Burford. The road had been gritted and was easy enough to navigate. I admired the Cotswold cream stone on the myriad of cottages and buildings lining the main road as I headed down the main street towards my Cottage. In the distance I could see the dip towards the Windrush river and the open countryside beyond the town.

The cottage in Old George Yard sits to the side of the main street of Burford. Pedestrian access is down a lane way which has an old stone arch that opens onto the main street shops and pubs, while car parking is pot-luck in the local streets. One of a number, the cottage's pretty pale green door and little outdoor space are charming. Dragging my suitcase from two blocks away, in the snow late in the afternoon, I was pleased to unlock the door and go inside the cottage and relax. The heating was on as a welcoming gesture and a pile of logs for the open fire. I was set for the evening. A quick trip to the local Co-Op and I was set with a bottle of Italian Pinot-Grigio, fruit juice and a can of soup.

The cottage is a traditional two up-two down building. Every UK based property show I have ever watched, and there's been a lot, frequently promote the important attribute of a room being cosy. Was George Yard cosy? Downstairs is a comfortable lounge with a log burner and a small kitchen; up a narrow staircase to a large bedroom and bathroom. The bed itself was so high that I literally had to make a leap to get in, the perennial problem when one is only 5 foot tall. The mattress was so soft and comfortable and I slept for 12 hours my first night. The thick linen embroidered curtains and dark timber furniture added a medieval feel to the room. The bathroom had been refreshed with a power shower and nice tiling but the ancient nature of the building remained - the deep windowsill meant I couldn't reach to open the window, but that was fine. What delighted me was that the wood burner came supplied with enough wood and kindling to last me the week. Curled up on the leather sofa, my favourite shawl used as my knee rug tucked around me, and depending on the time either a glass of wine or a cup of tea as I settled in for the evening. I was indeed cosy in the Cotswolds.

Having been 'on the go' for the last few days meant that I was keen to enjoy a luxuriously slow start to my days here in Burford. Sunrise didn't occur till after 8am in the morning, so it was easy to stay tucked into bed and not be in any rush to go outside. A cup of tea, the only reason to venture downstairs, and back into bed for hours.  Crumpets for breakfast eventually and then time to venture outside. While the weather was still cool and overcast, it was not the cold of Edinburgh, so I was keen to walk the village and explore. Rugged up in my black Barbour winter coat and a scarf around me, sturdy boots on my feet and I was set to go.

The main street of Burford provides all of the modern day needs one could have. Coffee, cake, a butcher, cheese maker and a store devoted to selling only brushes! Huffkins Tea room is delightful and my lunch of cauliflower and tomato soup accompanied by a tuna mayo sandwich and french fries was delicious. Enough to keep me full for the entire day (mainly because I took half the sandwich home for dinner LOL). The main street of Burford has a number of great pubs on offer. The Bull dates back to the 15th Century as a coaching house. It is here I have my first late afternoon gin and tonic.  A Cotswolds Gin with an elderflower tonic and slice of orange.  The Angel is renowned for its excellent cuisine, but ensconced at a table near the window I could enjoy the low ceilings and roaring fire with another Cotswold Gin and FeverFew sicilian lemon tonic. The Mermaid beckoned with its ancient stone windowsills and offers of cream teas and delicious food but I opted for an Edinburgh Gin and slimline tonic and slime of lemon. At The Bay Tree Hotel, around the corner from my cottage, I enjoyed a Sipsmith Gin and Mediterranean tonic garnished with slices of grapefruit and orange, sitting in front of an open fire and a deer's head gazing down upon me. Not all on one day of course! I have discovered that a gin and tonic is a very pleasant way of filling in that sometimes awkward time between afternoon activity and dinner, particularly when one is alone and there's not a lot on the TV. English pubs are unique. I would never think of going to a pub in Australia to while away an hour or so on my own. They are dens of drunkness usually and a woman on her own is open to annoying attention. But in the UK, I can sit peacefully with a drink and enjoy my own thoughts, the environment, a chat with the bar staff if I'm in the mood and otherwise be undisturbed. Visiting a good English pub is one of my favourites things to do!

Spring is in the air. I wander past small ancient garden beds belonging to equally ancient houses and through the dark soil I can see fresh green shoots coming through. Snowdrops have surfaced from under the cover of snow which has covered them these last few days, their delicate little flowers of white and green nod a little in the wind. In the garden of one delightful historic house, the grass is covered with early crocuses. Their colours of violet, purple yellow and white bring a smile to my face for I think it is the first time I have seen this Spring English flower.  A little way along, the dark soil is disturbed by thick green leaves which curve around a small but forming hyacinth flower. I wonder if they are blue, purple, pink or white. Sadly, I'll not be here to find out. Trees line the streets here in Burford but they are still bare of growth. Their network of branches are dark against the skyline as I look up into the sky but they too will soon shoot into life.

I can happily spend my days here at home in my borrowed little cottage but I have decided to go on one adventure. Blenheim Palace is about a 20 minute drive away so as Wednesday morning dawned I decided it was time to get out and go explore. Blenheim is billed as "Britain's Greatest Palace" and is also notable for being the birth place of Sir Winston Churchill. I"m not sure of the 'greatest' claim, I think there maybe others who would like to aim for that title, but it is certainly the only palace that is in private ownership. The palace's history dates back to being a gift from the Nation (and Queen Anne) in thanks to the Duke of Marlborough for his win against the French. at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. It is a wonder of baroque architecture and styling. 

As I wander the halls of Blenheim I overhear staff comment that the numbers of guests have increased for this time of year no doubt due to the popular film The Favourite. This film explores the relationship of Queen Anne with Sarah, the Duchess of Marlborough, which appears to have been intimate by all accounts. My favourite room at Blenheim Palace is the library. I gaze at the ageing leather bound tomes and I wonder if anyone has actually read them. There is a gallery resplendent with additional books and at one end of the large space there is an open fire and comfy chairs. Oh I wish I could sit and read in peace! By my account what tourists can see of Blenheim is very small indeed. The scale of the Palace is enormous and yet from the Great Hall through the Sir Winston Churchill display, corridors and State Rooms, one must see less than 20% of the actual building.

I am drawn outside into the Formal gardens. Upon my arrival at Blenheim I walked the grounds, past the lake and across the wonderful sunken bridge and the vista is perhaps reasonably claimed as the most beautiful view in all of England. Capability Brown certainly knew how to create a garden which was an all encompassing view of the countryside. Anything un-sightful was swept away as lakes were created and/or enlarged, forests were planted and special scenic spots created to maximise the experience of the visitor. Standing mid way upon the bridge I can admire the breadth of scenery and the sound of ducks and geese squawking. Swans glide by silently. Underneath my feet, the rooms created within the bridge are flooded as Capability decided that the original bridge was not in scale to the scenery. He was right of course but I wonder at what in the past had taken place beneath my feet and what remains there to this day.

The Cotswolds area is a beautiful part of this wonderful country and I can look forward to my return in September when I shall discover the beauties of Stow-On-The-Wold and perhaps Bourton-On-The-Water. Nothing seems to be further away than a 20 minute drive but I was happy to limit my exploration this time to just Burford. For five wonderful nights I was indeed Cosy In The Cotswolds.