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Sailing Tudor Seas

lindaglamour
Oct 19, 2016
3 min read

Henry VIII's pride and joy was the Mary Rose. First built in 1511 and in service for 34 years it sank quite spectacularly in 1545 with a huge loss of life. Sitting under the ocean for 437 years the ship was raised in 1982 and is now housed at The Mary Rose exhibit in Portsmouth. The ship was substantially refitted in 1536 and while about to lead an attack against the French, she met her demise. It is still unclear why the boat sank but one theory has it that the new canon were too heavy and when hit by a large wave, the ship rolled and water came in through the gun ports. Heaving to one side, the Mary Rose then sank in the Solent.

The newly opened revamped exhibition space now protects the remains of the ship and contents but also makes it very accessible for visitors to view and understand the monumental nature of the ship and the archaeological remains which also came to the surface with it. The 'treasure' includes many every day items the ships crew owned and used but also their very remains.

Walking in to the darkened enclosure, I was amazed at the size of the ship remains which had been rescued. As a tourist, one walks through on 'gang planks' - to one side, the larger of the ship timbers showing the levels inside the ship. Modern day holographics re-enact the crew working on each of the levels. In the centre of the passage there is a round marker indicating where the main mast would have been. It is astonishing to imagine how large and heavy this ship must have been and crewed by nearly 400.

A separate exhibit is for the items that were discovered within the ship's hold. A full surgeons kit, personal items belonging to the crew including combs, weaponry, shoes. A kitchen with implements and of course a lot of weaponry.

Two skeletons were discovered at the base of a staircase leading upwards - crew no doubt trying to escape at the time of sinking but were unlucky. Their remains show us the incredible upper body strength of the archers that was needed to pull and use the longbows.

Portsmouth has had a long maritime history. From the Mary Rose there is also the HMAS Victory, Nelson's flagship. Much lighter and sleeker than the Mary Rose, it nevertheless played a significant role in defending the English coast and empire.

The Solent is famous for also being where Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh were able to lead the defeat of the great Spanish Armada. On the small boat cruise from Portsmouth Harbour out onto the Solent, and looking across the coast imaging the Armada approaching, one can only imagine how different English life might have been if their luck had not held and the weather had improved!

In Plymouth I walked up from the main street ( a relatively soulless modern city hub) to Plymouth Hoe. Here is Sir Francis Drake larger than life (and in iron) gazing out over the Hoe to the sea and the Solent. Famously waiting to finish his game of lawn bowls before heading out to meet the Armada, he is a true naval hero.

Wherever one wanders and walks here one discovers a new Tudor association. Looking for lunch in Ashburton today I saw a sign of what looked like a traditional English pub - just what I wanted. The Exeter Inn dates back to 1130. The sign at the front tells me that this pub was the favourite watering hole of Sir Walter Raleigh and here at the Exeter Inn in 1618 he was arrested for piracy against the Spanish (which had been done with tacit approval by Elizabeth Ist) Having been forgiven once and freed his second run in with the Spanish was not and he was beheaded in the same year.

I sat in the pub and saw how it would not have changed much over the years. In unexpected places I have discovered the Tudor trail and gained an insight into their lives. I am privileged to have walked and sailed their roads and seas.