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Being in Buckfastleigh

lindaglamour
Oct 18, 2016
3 min read

My goal in staying four weeks in Buckfastleigh was to get to live and feel like a local in the old market town that my Hayman ancestors came from. Situated on the edge of the Dartmoor National Forest, Buckfastleigh has its history and prosperity based in the woollen industry. Its main street like so many local towns is named Fore St. Its row of Victorian and older houses are painted in pretty pastels or the local natural stone is left to show. Houses are interspersed with a small range of shops - two coffee shops, a vege store, post office and general store. There are three pubs.

Buckfastleigh originates from "Buckfast" meaning a stronghold, and "leigh" for the pasture belonging to Buckfast. Buckfast Abbey built by the Bendictine monks is nearby. It has been an industrial town, firstly with wool but then with mining, quarrying, tanning and paper-making given its ready access to water through the fast flowing stream through town and the nearby river Dart.

My own ancestors are identified as being woolcombers. They lived in Jordan st though sadly I don't have the exact house number. I was not surprised to see that the row of cottages backed on to the still existing Devonian sheepskin works.

The cottage I am calling home has its access off Fore st through a small carriageway and it sits at the end of the lane next to the mill and running stream.

Yes, I have to drive through this to get to the cottage! It's a squeeze.

My front door and below, lounge. I love the beams and the way the original stone shows through the whitewashed walls.

I imagine my forebears would have walked this street. They would have known neighbours who worked at the mill and perhaps who lived in the cottage where I am staying. This knowledge itself, perhaps circumstantial, adds depth to the feeling 'at home' that I have.

At Holy Trinity Church I walked the aisle and knave, or what remains of them and then through to the graveyard where Haymans lie buried in a row. In days to come I shall search for more for I am sure they are there. I remember my first visit to the church and it was intact but in 1992 it was destroyed through an arson attack. The baptismal font has been removed and now is in the St Lukes Church foyer. It is large medieval carved piece of stone and standing in front of it, I am deeply moved to think that generations of my family before me were baptised over it.

I have lived like a local. I have shopped at the food co op, had coffee at the newest cafe, visited the post office and the pub and bought dinner from the fish and chip shop. I have looked at the faces of the locals to see if there are any familiar features. But most importantly, I have felt comfortable. I have felt relaxed and calm and at home.

There are adventures to be had. Buckfastleigh is in a great location to visit both Exeter and Plymouth but my preference is for the seaside villages such as Totnes, Dartmouth and Salcombe and the Dartmoor villages of Widecombe In The Moor, Lustleigh and Chagford.

One adventure I have had is taking the steam train from Buckfastleigh to Totnes along the river Dart. It is a scenic trip. One looks out from the carriage to across the fertile green countryside and river. I am told that at the right time of the year one can see the salmon leaping attempting to move upstream. The steam train is a restored locomotive and staffed by volunteers from the local area. It was great fun and a wonderful way to fill in an afternoon.