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Tiny salty olives

lindaglamour
May 17, 2016
3 min read

How can one visit France without writing about the food? Impossible! (said with a french flair).

Before my departure I had prided myself on being able to order a 'coupe et frites' in french, that is, a glass of champagne and a bowl of fries - and I was right! Sitting along the Promenade des anglais in Nice, I was able to do just that. The bubbly bubbled and the fries came in their own little wire basket, curly and puffy lightly dusted with sea salt flakes. It was the one thing that could draw my eyes away from the stunning mediterranean vista and the people watching that goes along with the promenade.

The highlight of gastronomy however is discovered in the hills. Away from the coast and up into the medieval hilltop villages of Provence, one finds the local specialities and the pride of cooking a meal well. Seillans if you google, will bring you to the Hotel de deus rocs - a picturesque hotel prettily displayed with an outside courtyard for drinking a coupe however sadly, on Monday, it was closed. Chez Hugo to the rescue! Situated on the village hillside as it rises upwards, Chez Hugo's courtyard allows one to take in the vista of the valley alongside the vino.

First came a small bowl of tiny salty olives that were so moreish it was hard to stop. A bowl with a few slices of crisp fresh baguette. The main meal of slow braised pork cheek, caramelised tender vege and a balsamic glaze was perfection. The local sweet pussycat thought it might be something it would like to try but alas poor puss, no human food for you for there was none to share it disappeared so quickly. One thought about desert. The menu of duo glaces-chocolat, mango, vanilla or limon or perhaps the orange cheesecake with coulis? But non, no room :-(

Today in Tourtour the local village square was open for business. Little cafes, bars and more upscale restaurants were popular with locals and tourists alike. A cafe au lait at one to refresh and ponder my day. The milk frothy the coffee mild. While walking the undulating cobbled streets, I heard the church bell ring 12 so thoughts of lunch beckoned. The Relaix de St Denis restaurant was clearly the chic place in town. Aged olive trees stretched out across the tables set outside in the sunshine with colourful provencale fabric cushions, the tables set with sparkling tableware so how could I resist? I could not.

With a coupe de champagne, I selected the menu de terroir, a sample plate of local produce. I felt quite the socialite sitting in this beautiful restaurant under the olive tree sipping champagne from a flute while in front of me one of the prettiest plates of food I think I have ever seen.

A gailette of mixed meat, predominantly pork and duck. A mouselline of artichoke, toast with anchovy paste and another pate. A mixed mesculan salad dressed with truffle oil, a confit of green tomatoes and a selection of local cheese - one cream and soft while another white and slightly chalky. The ubiquitous small bowl of olives brought as a starter with the coupe. Baguette for claiming the mousse and confit, the tang of tomato with the crunch of crust.

More wine? Mais non but tea, oui! A pot of earl grey with a treat - a little finger of sponge, slightly sweet, slightly sticky and utterly delicious. No dessert needed now.

It was market day. The local providers were selling fresh vegetables, lavender, oils and syrups and luckily, a kind young man who could speak English and let me sample the cheese and the ham. In my bag a small slice of mature cheese and a quarter of sausage looking like a type of salami. At the bakery the crispest baguette to round out tonights picnic dinner. A half bottle of rose, a mandarin for dessert. All for a total of 10 Euros. The evenings are long here, the sky turns from bright to pastel blue slowly. I shall sit at my picnic table and enjoy it all.