It's a wonderful world

The Cannaregio sestiere (or suburb) I have been calling home this past week forms a large crescent shape between the Grand Canal and the lagoon and it is a busy, bustling community. Those who have also called it home include Marco Polo, Titian and Tintoretto along with a small and vibrant jewish community. Today I walked in their footsteps, warmed under the same sun and like them, made my way through the local market enjoying the noise and aromas of the local stalls and cafes.

As each day has passed that I have been here, it has unfolded in unexpected and delightful ways. Throwing open the curtains and jumping back into bed enjoying the sunshine, blue sky and tea, I had no real plans for the day. My venetian bucket list had now a row of ticks so today, I thought, just go with the flow. My favourite way to start the 'real day' that is, the day out and about, is to head to my pasticceria and order my usual - Lo! I must be a local as the waitress smiled and my order 20 cents less than yesterday!! Perhaps my italian is improving? So being a local, I decided to explore my own backyard.

My erstwhile friend the "Top 10 Venice' guidebook suggested a tour of the Ca' d'Oro followed by a coffee and then a walk to the jewish ghetto, so this is the path I followed. The Ca d'Oro is a beautiful palace on the canal renowned for its ornate fretwork exterior which fronts the canal rather than for its collection of art but I found both entrancing. It also gives its name to the local vaporetto stop which I have come to know well.... Inside the palace, staff were at work moving a statue on display, wrapping it, securing it for its journey and I was intrigued to watch so many work to move just one item.

The word 'ghetto' is a venetian word and it is here in 1492 the jewish refugees searching for safety made their way. Locked behind walls to ensure there was no 'fraternisation' with the local young women, as their community nonetheless expanded, the only way to accommodate the arrivals was to build up. So it is here that venetian buildings reach up to 7 stories high and no where else. It is a quiet place. Walking along the path one reaches a small bridge and a marker above on the other side announcing one has arrived at the ghetto. The original word comes from the venetian getto or foundry as it was once the site of an old iron foundry. Walking into the piazza today, it is sunny and nearly deserted. A couple taking coffee, the ever-present pigeons and I. There is still a strong sense of community here though- the bakeries and restaurants are kosher, even the gift shops feature jewish inspired content. But there is a sadness here, a closeting away from the rest of Venetian life, and on the wall of the ghetto art reliefs showing scenes of grief and persecution. But today, the sun is shining, the colours are glowing and people are smiling. I am glad I have been here and if only briefly, been part of this place.

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Canal side on Fondamenta Della Misericordia I enjoyed lunch. An aperol spritz-its orange glow in the sunshine intoxicating and not for its alcohol content which is not substantial...lunch, spaghetti with mussels and the house wine (I note here that it has been my experience that is is always good!) and sold by the glass. Other wine only comes in 1/2 litre or a bottle, too much even for me! A strolling band come past and play "Its a wonderful world" ( I kid you not!) and it is! I amble slowly back to the apartment down the Strada Nouva and note the shop fronts closing - "yes" I think, its nap time. And like the locals I retreat, my head down on the sofa and I too rest.